A few months ago I googled “Author Joan Callaway.” I’d bought a book by her, The Color Connection, and when I realized how fabulous it was I wanted to see what else she’d written, hoping for additional gems for my book collection. A book about surviving grief came up, It’s an Ill Wind that Blows no Good, and a short twitter feed with some political tweets. Photos made it clear this was the same woman despite the subject matter of her writing having changed. While I was slightly disappointed there was no further mention of color or style, I was pleased to find that she lived less than two hours away and I could contact her. We became Facebook friends at once (fun!) and I continued to devour the book. Then I had the incredible pleasure of meeting her last weekend.
From further reading, I knew that Joan had suffered the most terrible of losses when she was just a few weeks younger than I am now. Her youngest son (of five children) and her husband had died from a fire in their home. Surviving this clearly led to her more recent book , but I had no idea that it also led to the book that I cherished so much. You see, after her husband died, she needed to support her family so she opened a store.
Well, actually, she tells me, she and a friend thought they’d become realtors but at the second or third lesson they changed their minds when Joan asked a question and was told, “You don’t need to worry about that, the broker will know.” Joan explained to me, “I’m the kind of person that needs to know about EVERYTHING so that wasn’t going to work!” Indeed, Joan’s must-understand-everything attitude is displayed beautifully in The Color Connection. More importantly for the reader, Joan knows how to organize information and how to explain it clearly.
The first store that she opened sold craft based art, and later beads too. One day Joan took a gamble and bought six pairs of earrings by Laurel Burch to sell though they were pricier than her customers might want to pay. They “flew off shelves” so Joan decided it was wiser economically for her to sell earrings than beads. She soon became known as the “Earring Lady.” One of Joan’s assistants in her shop gave her the confidence later (and thank goodness!) to also sell clothing. When clients came in with palettes, holding them up to clothes, Joan was intrigued. This was the start of her quest to understand seasonal color analysis through reading, attending workshops and having her own colors analysed many times.
This is Joan’s Suzanne Caygill “Onyx Winter” palette on top. It’s the first time I’ve seen a Suzanne Caygill palette presented in this plastic case format…
And, here’s the other side:Below is a palette extension created for Joan later, by Dorothy Gietzen, one of Suzanne’s graduates. It is this palette than Joan says she used the most. Here she is with it. Her hair was jet black when the palettes were made.
Dorothy wrote, in beautiful handwriting, on the back of each card strip the categories that the colors fell into ( understated, dramatic, neutral, etc., and any additional notes such as how much of a color could be worn). If I could travel back in time I’d certainly want to shop in or better yet work at Joan’s store, Tarika. Clients and sales assistants got free color and style advice and education. Joan would record well dressed people on TV on tape to show her staff as a teaching aid! She stocked garments in colors and styles that worked in seasonal harmony, making shopping in a way that would make Suzanne Caygill proud simply effortless. Garments in summer colors were in summer styles, autumn colors in autumn styles and she and her staff understood the smaller variations too (that everyone wasn’t just one of four seasons but each had more differentiation). Joan’s book has a concise chapter on “illusions” so no doubt her staff also knew about selecting the most flattering of garments within the s too. She had windows at the front and back of the store for good daylight and two changing rooms, one very romantic and feminine, one more masculine and ethnic. Joan enjoyed watching clients choose which to use!
Joan mentions to me (and also wrote in her book) that she sees too many people online in style forums and, before, in her store, thinking they can only wear exact matches to the colors in their palette. She would show people in her store how to open out their palette to see if the color or print in question blended with it. She notes that fabric swatches are far easier to use than paint samples for this purpose. Consider: I have approximately 3,000 fabric swatches to choose from for my clients. The human eye, it is estimated, can discern 10 million colors. An analyst can’t physically store and sort through that many swatches in a timely fashion even if we can discern the differences: it’s simply not practical. (Though I admit I’d have fun having 10,000 swatches to work with or being able to magically alter my fabric samples ever so slightly!) Clients therefore need to understand their palette and remember it’s the overall effect of an outfit that matters. I’m so glad my teacher, Debra Lindquist, taught me this too and I’ve been passing “How to Use Your Palette” notes onto my clients when I send them their colors!
Joan suggests people add swatches to their palette when they find fabrics that fit between colors, whether from fabric bought for sewing a garment or a bit snipped from a seam if it’s a garment that was purchased. It’s a nice way to add to your understanding certainly and, she notes that if it’s a print then having a snip in your palette in your purse will serve you well when shopping for coordinating items.
The most unexpected and genius tip I learned from The Color Connection has more to do with Slow Fashion and the wise purchasing of pieces generally. Joan suggests that you keep a shopping wish list actually in your closet. As items occur to you, you add them to the list and (and here comes the brilliant part), you also make a mark after the item each time you’re getting dressed and wish you had it. When an item has lots of marks after it, it’s going to be a wise purchase and should go on your actual shopping list.
I asked Joan whether her book got the most favorable reception from consumers, designers or retailers (as her book has sections written for all three groups). She laughed and said, “From color analysts!” It wasn’t an answer I expected, but it makes complete sense. This sort of clearly written, all encompassing book was so needed! I’m fortunate to now have a signed copy!
Joan not only wrote and owned her stores, but she also set up a Bereavement Outreach Group – the first of its kind- and more recently set up a literacy program for at risk school children. I was curious which of her accomplishments she was most proud of. She had to pause to and chose co-founding All Things Right and Relevant a second hand store in Davis that provides work and job skills to those suffering from mental illness. It’s part of a much larger support system for those with mental illness, providing everything from housing to counselling, so it was the big picture she was referring to. After all, Joan doesn’t do things by halves.
Today, at her retirement community, Joan leads a memoir writing group, and runs her own mini-library outside her front door. And, due too demand, she’s working to get Color Connection republished! It’s expected to be $48. Whether you’re determined to find your best colors yourself (she has the BEST chapter on this), or you want to know more about style recommendations for the seasons, this is your book! I’ll be sure to update you when it’s available. (SEE BELOW!)
If you want to read more about Joan, this is my favorite article about her.
Oh, and, last point. I also purchased Scientific Dressing by Marilyn Curtin, a book Joan recommends in hers. For anyone who loves to analyze the figure and wants to better understand style choices with regards to proportions, stance and head position (really!), this book has some interesting tidbits. I’m not jumping up and down saying, “Buy it!” as I didn’t love everything about it, but I’m glad I bought it as it made me think about a few new things.
UPDATE: The book is $52, a tiny bit more than anticipated but really it’s like three books in one. GET IT, here. And enjoy!
Thank you for increasing my knowledge on my own colour journey. Your well written articles about colour and style have always been helpful and enlightening. PS. I have the book and I am still absorbing the ideas presented.
Glad to hear it, Pat! Thank you for both reading and commenting! It’s appreciated!
What a fabulous pioneer in the world of fashion and color. I wish I could shop in her store. I bet the concept would take of like crazy today. Any hardy entrepeneurial people out there?!
I really enjoy reading your blog. Very well written and uniquely informative!
Thank you! And, yes either entrepreneurs to recreate such a shop (online even with fabric swatches they could send out) or/and mad scientist to make us a time machine to use to go back in! 🙂
Fascinating!!! Thank you for sharing that.
You’re very welcome, Sandra!
What a wonderful lady! I’m envious that you got to spend time with her.
It’s great idea to collect your in-between colors as you find them. I hadn’t thought of that.
Embarrassingly, I hadn’t either! (But in my defense, I thought I was here to do all the work, and my clients were not to lift a finger!)
Oh this was an incredible delight to read, thank you for sharing this :). How amazing it would have been to shop at Joan’s boutique what a remarkable woman :).
Isn’t she just SO remarkable?!? And yes, her store. Wow. 🙂
I will have to get the new book! I should have read one of the two I purchased and gave to non-Americans via Amazon.com! I’m even more fascinated now! ❤
Bridgett, you will! And you are such a sweetheart to have mailed those copies abroad!
I enjoyed reading this very much. I can only imagine how much fun it must have been in Joan’s shop!
Oh how delightful!!! I have a wish list like that for my closet, but the tick mark system is brilliant!!! I need to get better at waiting to find the perfect piece to fill a space, but right now I have too many spaces. I will just have to keep my eyes open and watch the tick marks add up. 🙂